الله ينور يا باشا بصراحة شوية صور جامده جدا
الله ينور يا باشا بصراحة شوية صور جامده جدا
سبويلر المصنع الفبريكه بتاع الكوبيه
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الصوره دى ملعاش دعوه بالبرفورمانس بس شكل الموتور احلى
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ازاى تغير نور الاشاره اللى فى مراية السيراتو سواء بلدات او لمبه عاديه من غير ما تكسر او تتبوظ حاجه
step 1.
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Step 2.
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Step 3
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Step 4
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Step 5
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Step 6
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Step 7
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اه يا جماعه يعنى مفيش ردود و مفيش تثبيت كمان
والله انا تعبت فى الموضوع ده جامد جدا و انا حبيت اكون من الناس اللى بتتفاعل مع المنتدى تفيد و تستفيد
ارجوا التثبيت حتى تعم الفائده
يعنى اروح ابيع كيداهم و الا اه يعنى
اريد حلا او تثبيتا (ربنا يخلى الاداره)
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Alright finally done mine too .
here's pic from S'pore ..
Special thanks to the67beast for sending e pinstrip over .
Cerato Forte 1.6 (M/T)
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Front skirt installation complete
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R side skirt
Here I was setting up for the side skirts.
I precut some painters tape to help hold on the part to the rocker to define its position.
Tip: use the foam sheet and place it below the car incase the part at the opposite end slips and falls to the ground. It’ll prevent any touch-ups.
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The 1” side tape is perfect to defining the position of the front edge
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Side skirt installation complete
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R rear lip style spoiler
Here’s the spoiler after painting
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The black strips on stuck on the deck lid are called drill guides. They have a stem which slips into the 5 mounting positions of the spoiler and help transfer those locations onto the deck lid. The green painters tape was used to provide me with the center position I found when I first placed the spoiler on the deck lid.
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I mounted the brake light to the spoiler. NOTE: the R spoilers will include a Hella brake light with a RED lens. I used a Hella light with a clear lens (lights up red) from an old project which I wanted to try out.
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These show the connection to the center stop light located below the rear parcel ....f. We also included some foam pads to wrap the wires in a couple of location to avoid any potential damage.
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Rear spoiler installation complete
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Here’s a side view but I didn’t have the side skirts installed yet.
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R door sill plates
I used a couple of strips of tape on either side of the original black door sill plate so I know where to place the new R sill plate.
I removed the original black plastic door sill plate using a plastic clip removal tool.
Tip: along the edge, I placed a rag underneath the tool to avoid scuffing the painted surface.
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Door sill installation complete
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R Badge
I cut the template and held it up to the fender to understand where I need to prep.
I then proceeded to clean the surface and taped the template in place. The template can then be used on the opposite side of the vehicle by simply flipping the template around.
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تركيب زينون بالشرح و الصور
HID install
Having experienced HID lighting in all my cars for over 5 years, it was difficult to go back to regular halogen lighting. I drive a fair amount on the highway from Toronto to many parts of Michigan. Being able to spot any animals along the side of the highway at 4-5am is very important for me.
I chose to use AbsoluteHID due to the positive feedback I received from the local BMW community over the past years and the fact that I have local support is a plus.
I used an H11 AbsoluteHID kit. It uses 55W ballasts with 4300K bulbs. I wanted to achieve a stock appearance without any shade of blue.
It’s also recommended that you upgrade your 10amp headlight fuse with a 15amp fuse which I had no problem with.
Before removing the headlamp assemblies, I added some painters tape to the front bumper and grille below the lights to prevent any potential damage.
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Test fitting all the connections and plugged everything in the car.
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I used a 1” hole saw and made a hole onto the cover as shown
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I ran the wires through and used black caulking on the grommet to help seal the grommet once in-place
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I added a few strips of double sided tape and adhered the ballasts to the top of the windshield washer reservoir and the body as shown.
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The lighting is incredible. The cut-off is actually quite low for a headlamp assembly that’s not designed for HID lighting output.
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عامود الاتزان و الامان
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I want the widebody kit with the carbon fiber hood. Looks soooo good.http://www.forteforums.com/forums/im.../wol_error.gif
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لاول مره فيديو عربيه متظبطه و متروشه
YouTube - Modified Kia Forte
اعتاب و كساحات و اكصدام للكوبيه
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http://www.csupomona.edu/%7Eadvaldez/KIA/lightplate.JPG __________________
Ok… I will try to make this short to the point and informative.
First things you will need:
led strip link on ebay
http://rover.ebay.com/ar/1/711-53200...6&toolid=10001 http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=m39&_nkw=Audi+R8+Style+LED+St rip+DRL+Lights+Kia+Soul+Forte
1. Metric wrench set
2. Multimeter
3. Glass Cleaner
4. Wire Stripers
5. Wire “Tap”
6. Electrical tape.
7. Diagnal cutters or scissors
8. Pliers
First thing you need to do is to remove the wire harness from the headlight. It should be in the middle of your lamp assembly and have a button you depress and pull towards the rear of the car to remove. Looks like picture below.
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Next take the headlamp out by removing the 2 bolts in the top as seen in pic below.* NOTE * There are 2 plastic detent/snap things that are on the backside of the headlight assembly that hold it in place as well, pull firm but gently it will come out.
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Once you have the headlamp removed, clean the unit with the glass cleaner. Concentrate on the botom of the lens cover because this is where you will attach the led strip. No picture for this I am sure by now we all know how to clean glass
Once cleaned, it is time to apply the LED strip. The strips are directional so make sure you have the correct one for each lens. You can see in this picture the leds are more to one side. This is the side you want facing out. . *NOTE* I chose the led strip that would allow the wire end of the strip to be closer to the outside of the car, not closer to the gril. This seemed to give me more slack on the wire to connect to the headlamp wire harness.
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Now that you have the correct LED strip, peal back the protective strip on the 3M tape and begin applying the strip starting in the corner and working your way along the edge as seen below. Keep working to the edge of the light until done.
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Put the headlamp to the side for now. Time to prep the Harness.
Now I would love to tell you that you could copy the wires I used to tap off exactly but based on my previous discoveries with wireing in the forte (see my nitros project) what the schematic says and what actually is reality are not always the same. That being said, Just to be safe time to grab that multimeter.
Looking at the plug on the end of the harness you will see 6 wires these are the wires that supply 12 volts to your parking lights, turn signals, low and high beams. I chose to connect my LEDs to the parking lights, as I wanted them to be on anytime those are. Using the meter check for 12v when you have the light or lights on that you you want to tap into. i.e. touching one leg of the meter to ground turn on and off the parking lights. use the other lead of the meter to check the plug for a change from 0 volts to 12 volts on each wire untill you find the correct one. Looking at the plug on my car with the plug latch on top I found that I got the correct voltage from the lower right 2 pins so these are the ones I will tap into.
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Once I found the correct wires I did a quick test by sitting the light on the car and touching the wires of the LED strip to the pins of the plug and doing a cycle on the parking lights (on/off) to ensure that the LED strip was working. The strip does not come with a marking that tells you which wire is positive and which is negative. This isnt a big deal and wont damage anything if you connect them up backwards. They simply wont work.You should test before the next step to make sure you have the polarity worked out.
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Next… time to tap into the wires on the harness with the led strip using the wire tap connectors found at any car parts store.( I am pretty sure radio shack, home depot, lowes have them too.)http://www.forteforums.com/forums/im.../wol_error.gif
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Using the scissors or diagnal cutters strip back the black tape/protective wrap on the harness to expose the wires.
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*Note* The wires on the LED strip are a much smaller gauge than the ones on the harness. Use the wire strippers to strip back the wires on the LED strip about the length of your fingernail and fold it back on its self to ensure you get a good connection with the wire tap connector. Using the pliers crimp the wire taps on the harness and the LED strip.
Once you have both wires tapped it should look something like this.
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Next I used electrical tape to wrap around the taps just to prevent extra moister and things from getting on it to make the connection stronger and last longer.
Final step is to put the lamp back in the car Connect the harness back up and do a final test.
Steps for the second light are the same so rinse and repeat.
Sit back and enjoy your new look!
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This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.http://imgur.com/nXZ3w.jpgIf you decide to use the 24cm LED strips you will have a gap in between the bumper and the head lights. Here are a few close up photos showing the gap.
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The gap I am talking about is the distance between the LEDS themselfs. IF you look up in the actually instructions to the photo where I have the light sitting on the car for testing you can see that the LEDS are grouped together in 3's so there is a group of 3 then a slight gap. The space between all the leds is not the same so some have said they dont like the look of it. The gap is there because there is acutally a junction on the circuit that you can cut to shorten the lenght of the LED strip of you dont like it as long as I did it. It is safe to cut it here withough breaking the path of electricty hence rendering the strip useless.
The gap you may be thinking of is after install between the light and the bumper. These actually fit in the gap between the headlamp and the bumber perfectly. Acutally taking away that space completely making it apear there is no gap at all. I will try to take a daytime photo after lunch and edit this post and attach it.
as promissed
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in this one i tried to split the group of 3 leds so you can see how the 2 on the left and the 2 on the right have a "gap" between them. the distance between the groups of leds is greater than the distance between the leds in each group... hence a "gap"
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After about 2 hours of trial, error, and running back to the hardware store I finally got my LED lights working. Had to splice a ~26 gauge wire together with an 18 gauge wire and then use tap-ins to connect to the parking lights. The wires for the led literally have like 8 strands of copper in them. Had to use a lighter to strip them and then fold it up about four times for it to stay in a 22 to 18 gauge wire splicer. Sorry for the bad pic, but night and Iphone cameras do not get along well.
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اه يا رجاله فى المشاركات و التفاعل
شكراً على الصور يا باشا
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Click and Close.
The left side has led brake and revers lights while the right side is stock. vvvv
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My reverse lights at night! vvvv
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YouTube - LED Lights in Operation2.wmv
YouTube - Taillights2.wmv
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http://www.forteforums.com/forums/im...er_offline.gif YouTube - Installation Video - Headlight and Tail Light Tint Film
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At Road Race helping vendors test fit for the Tribe (Pulley, Exhaust & Cat Delete and CF Splitter) http://www.forteforums.com/forums/im.../wol_error.gif
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Dyno Runs! From 165bhp to 182bhp (151WHP) on Automatic!!
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Closeup of Intake and Exhaust
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Close up of RED CF Center Caps!
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Rear View
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List of Mods:
>>Custom Intake from Spectre Modular Intake Systems
>>ECU Relocation kit
>>RRM Lightened Crank Pulley
>>RRM 2nd Cat Delete kit
>>Hanson DynoMax Hemi Exhaust system (Cat Back)
>>RoadRun Front Grill / Rear Emblem
>>Complete Debadge
>>3-way LED mirror covers(Black)
>>DRL lighting mod to run Fogs without head/parking lamps
>>Vinyl Roof (Black Matte)
>>Tomato-T Steering wheel Emblem
>>Gen-Coupe "Coupe" Carbon Fiber center caps fit to stock wheels
>>LED License Plate Lamps
>>LED Interior Lighting including backseats and trunk lamp)
>>Custom Katzkins leather Heated Seats x 4(Black w/ RR stitched seats)
>>MTX Thunderlink powered sub
>>iPod Cable
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