الموضوع: بطاريه جافه ولاسايله للدايو ؟؟؟؟

المشاركة الأصلية كتبت بواسطة MMamdouh

كدة يبقى دينامو ال128 ضعيف اوى

MMamdouh

تمام جدا...معني كده إن لو الدينامو الامبير الخارج منه مقدرش يكمل الأحمال المطلوبة...هيستعين بالبطارية في تكملة الأحمال دي...صح كده...مختلفين في حاجة؟
هنا بقي نقدر نقول زيادة علي كلام احمد عزت إن لما البطارية تكون أعلي هتقدر تساعد الدينامو فترة أكبر وبقدر أكبر قبل ما تموت (تفضي)

تعالوا نشوف:

If you have an alternator that can produce 120 amps of current (max) and the the total current demand from the electrical accessories (including the battery) is only 20 amps, the alternator will only produce the necessary current (20 amps) to maintain the target voltage (which is determined by the alternator's internal voltage regulator). Remember that the alternator monitors the electrical system's voltage. If the voltage starts to fall below the target voltage (approximately 13.8 volts depending on the alternator's design), the alternator produces more current to keep the voltage up. When the demand for current is low, the full current capacity of the alternator is not used/produced (a 120 amp alternator does not continuously produce 120 amps unless there is a sufficient current draw).

ده جميل جدا...معني كده إن خارج الدينامو بيزيد كل ما الأحمال تزيد وبالتالي لو زادت عن قدرة الدينامو ...هنجيب منين تاني؟

هنا بقي نشوف زيادة الأحمال ينتج عنها ايه و تعني إيه:

When you play your system at very high volumes and the lights on your vehicle dim slightly, it generally means that your alternator can not supply enough current for all of your electrical accessories (including your amplifiers). If you play a long bass note/tone and the lights get dim and stay dim until the note is over, your alternator clearly can not keep up with the current demand. If, on a long bass note, the lights dim just for a fraction of a second but return to their original brightness while the note/tone is still playing, the alternator's regulator may just be a little slow in reacting to the voltage drop. Since the lights return to their original brightness during the bass note, the alternator is able to supply the current needed by your power your amplifiers and other electrical accessories.

تمام كدة


طيب تعالو نشوف السايت ده Charging System Basics اللي أنا واخد منه الإقتباسات دي بيقول إيه عن تجربة الدينامو ودي نقطة مهمة جدا أنا أول مرة أعرفها:

Warning!
Some people tell you that you can check your alternator by disconnecting it from the battery to see if the alternator can produce enough current to keep the engine running. BAD IDEA! Disconnecting the battery will subject the voltage regulator (and computer and audio equipment...) to significant voltage spikes which may cause an otherwise good alternator to fail. Even if there were no damaging spikes, this test would not indicate whether or not the alternator was good because the engine will easily run with a weak or failing alternator.

معني كده إنه غلط جدا إننا نفصل البطارية والموتور داير...من لينك تاني نفس الكلام:

The man from the road service thinks he's being helpful. After he can't jump start your car, he puts in his own known good battery and starts your car. So far so good -- your battery was definitely either run down or bad, and he's proven it.

Now he decides to "test" your alternator by disconnecting the battery. After all, the car's ignition should be able to run on just the alternator's power alone.

Wrong!

The moment he disconnects either lead from your battery, it's entirely possible he caused thousands of dollars in damage. Here's why...

Your battery does more than just yield electricity. It also shorts AC, spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.

Even if your computers and stereo remain intact, in a great many cases removing the battery burns out the diodes in the alternator, necessitating a new alternator. If disconnecting the battery interferes with the voltage regulator's control voltage input, it's even possible for the alternator to put out hundreds of volts, frying everything.

Even the initial premise was wrong. If you disconnect the battery and the car conks out, you don't know if it conked out due to insufficient alternator current, or whether the resulting transients caused your ECU (the car's computer, which controls fuel mixture, timing, and much more) to spit out bad data, shutting down the car.

Nobody should EVER run your engine without a battery.

طب إزاي نشيك علي الدينامو:

Simple Test: If you want to see if your alternator is producing current, turn on your headlights when you're parked and the engine idling with the headlights shining on a wall (at night). Notice how bright they are. Then turn the engine off. The lights should get dimmer when you turn the engine off. If the lights get brighter when you kill the engine, the alternator was not charging sufficiently. When doing this test, the lights should be the only load (turn the stereo, a/c and other accessories off). With a heavy load, an otherwise good alternator may not be able to produce sufficient amounts of current at idle.

أو عند الكهربائي :

Check the reading on the voltmeter while the engine is off. It's important to know if the battery is healthy when you're testing the alternator because, even if the alternator is in good working order, it won't charge a dead battery. The voltage reading should be between 12.5 and 12.8 volts.

Crank the engine and check the reading on the voltmeter again. This time you are testing the alternator's output. The reading should be between 13.6 and 14.3 volts for a strong alternator. Take the alternator to an automotive shop if the reading is low for further testing.

Read more: How to Test the Output of an Alternator | eHow.com How to Test the Output of an Alternator | eHow.com